First published: 2026-05-17 / Last reviewed: 2026-05-17
This is an acne care guide compiled by Dr. Choi Byeong-geun of SHINE U Clinic Konkuk (3 minutes walk from Konkuk Univ. Station Exit 1).
The most regrettable cases in the acne consultation room are when patients receive only one type of treatment despite having different stages of acne. Active acne that has just flared up and the pigmentation, pores, and scars left after it has subsided cannot be treated with the same tools. We will explain how we approach each stage in the clinic.
1. Acne is a multi-stage condition
The single word "acne" that you see in the mirror actually encompasses several stages.
- Active inflammatory stage: Red, swollen pustular acne, accompanied by pain.
- Inflammation calming stage: Raised bumps, darkening in color.
- PIH (Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation): Brown or red marks left after acne has subsided.
- Scarring and pore stage: Depressed scars, icepick scars, rolling scars, enlarged pores.
The tools recommended in the clinic differ for each stage. Since most people have multiple stages simultaneously, recognizing the stages themselves is the starting point for the treatment process.
2. Active Inflammatory Stage: Capri Laser Red and Stamp
For active pustular acne, Capri Laser Red and Capri Laser Stamp modes are the primary candidates.
- Red mode: For inflammation calming, pain reduction, and erythema relief.
- Stamp mode: Acts directly on active acne bacteria, providing rapid calming.
Recommended in the clinic for:
- Those with active acne that has flared up just days before an important event like an exam or wedding.
- Those for whom medication alone is slow to calm the acne.
- Those who try not to touch their face but are constantly bothered, leading to accumulated irritation.
- Those who wish to break the cycle of recurrent pustular acne.
Receiving strong peeling, chemical peels, or toning during the active stage can actually stimulate inflammation, so calming tools are prioritized at this stage.
3. Inflammation Calming and Recurrent Care Stage: Capri Laser Blue
Capri Laser Blue mode is often used for routine acne care and prevention.
Recommended in the clinic for:
- Those whose active inflammation has subsided but still have residual raised bumps.
- Those with a short acne cycle who experience frequent recurrences.
- Those who desire regular management as part of a Capri package.
- Adolescents and young adults in their early 20s who are significantly affected by hormones.
Blue mode is gentle and causes less burden even with frequent treatments. A natural approach is to receive treatments at 1-2 week intervals to cumulatively lengthen the acne cycle itself.
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4. PIH (Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation) Stage: Toning Area
The brown or red marks left after acne has subsided move beyond Capri Laser to the toning area.
- Brown/black PIH → StarWalker Toning or PicoSure Toning
- Red PIH (vascular) → Separate IPL or vascular laser area
In the clinic, toning is started when active acne has almost completely subsided, as lightening pigmentation when it is close to the epidermis yields the most efficient results.
If pigmentation has settled deep into the dermis, more sessions will be needed to lighten it. It is recommended to start pigmentation care quickly as inflammation subsides.
5. Pore Stage: Discovery PicoGenesis Large Pore
Often, enlarged pores remain after a prolonged acne cycle. At this stage, Discovery PicoGenesis Large Pore is frequently used in the clinic.
The procedure is performed within one treatment session, following the sequence of CL + anesthesia + partial anesthesia of the triangular zone + DisPico Large Pore + baby injection + calming + modeling.
Recommended in the clinic for:
- Those whose active acne has mostly cleared but whose pores remain unchanged.
- Those with particularly prominent T-zone pores.
- Those who have received cumulative toning but have seen no change in their pores.
There are partial (self-cleansing) and full options, and results tend to be clearer with 3 cumulative sessions rather than a single treatment.
6. Acne Scar Stage: Separate Scar Master Treatment
For cases where depressed acne scars, rolling scars, or icepick scars have formed, we move to a separate scar treatment area such as Discovery PicoGenesis Acne Scar. Capri Laser is a tool for active acne care, not for scars.
7. At-a-Glance Comparison: Stage-Specific Tool Mapping
| Stage | Primary Tool | Recommended Frequency | Concurrent Treatments |
|---|---|---|---|
| Active pustular inflammation | Capri Laser Red/Stamp | Once every 1-2 weeks | Concurrent medication |
| Residual bumps/recurrent cycle | Capri Laser Blue | Once every 2-4 weeks | Capri Package |
| PIH pigmentation | StarWalker/PicoSure Toning | Once every 3-4 weeks | Aqua Peel base |
| Enlarged pores | PicoGenesis Large Pore | Once every 1-2 months | After cumulative toning |
| Depressed scars | PicoGenesis Acne Scar | Once every 1-2 months | Separate scar master treatment |
When a patient has two or three stages simultaneously, the general approach in the clinic is to proceed by dividing the tools by area and stage.
8. Common Confusions Patients Bring to the Clinic
Q1. "I'm taking acne medication; can I still receive treatment?" If you are taking isotretinoin-based medication, strong peeling or laser treatments are not recommended. It is safer to allow a certain period after discontinuing the medication. Please inform the clinic about your medications, and we will determine the possible range of treatments together.
Q2. "Can I pop my pimples?" Popping pimples by hand is not recommended in almost all cases. It is one of the biggest causes of accumulated scars and pigmentation. Extraction procedures in the clinic are performed in a sterile environment with appropriate tools, so the risk level is different from self-extraction.
Q3. "Can I stop treatments once my acne has cleared?" Even if active acne has subsided, it is more efficient to move on to the next stage's tools if recurrent cycles, residual pigmentation, pores, or scars remain. If treatments are stopped after only addressing the active stage, the unaddressed pigmentation and pores will remain.
9. Post-Treatment Care
Common post-acne treatment care:
- Avoid irritating the treated area (rubbing, strong soaps).
- Use sunscreen daily (directly linked to PIH prevention).
- Avoid makeup on the day of treatment if possible; resume the next day.
- Avoid strong peeling or chemical peels for one week.
- Do not touch with hands.
Sunscreen has the strongest impact on preventing post-acne pigmentation. Please ensure consistent use during both the active and calming stages.
10. Frequently Asked Questions
Q. My acne is severe; where should I start? The clinic will first assess your stage. If active inflammation is the main concern, start with Capri Laser Red/Stamp; if residual bumps are the main concern, Blue; if pigmentation is the main concern, toning. It is natural to start with the stage that bothers the patient most.
Q. Is it better to get a package? The Capri package involves cumulative care at regular intervals, making it suitable for those with active or recurrent cycles. For those who only need a single calming treatment, a standalone procedure is more efficient.
Q. Are there any additional at-home care steps I can take? Cleansing, sun protection, exfoliation, diet, and sleep patterns directly affect the stability of treatment results. We will review your cosmetic products and lifestyle patterns together in the clinic.
Acne is not a single-stage condition but a cycle with multiple stages. Knowing exactly which stage you are in simplifies the choice of treatment tools. If you would like to check together in front of a mirror, you can inquire directly via non-face-to-face consultation by chat.
Authored by: Dr. Choi Byeong-geun (Chief Director of SHINE U Clinic Konkuk / Member of the Korean Society for Acne and Melasma Research, Korean Society for Laser Dermatology and Hair) Last Reviewed: 2026-05-17
This article provides general information about treatments and does not replace diagnosis or treatment. Treatment suitability and results may vary by individual.